Fishmongers knew Chilean sea bass when it went by “Patagonian toothfish,” its pre-fame name, and they have war stories about turbot as big as manhole covers. Some 105 years ago Citarella only sold fish, adding boutique teas and bouquets and aged rib eye only in the 1990s. Anyone desperately seeking squirmy geoducks, moon snails, or in-shell uni from either Maine or Santa Barbara should head here first. The busy chef-favorite combines choice old-guard Fulton style and new-school Chinatown threads in service of a mind-boggling marketplace stocked to the gills with snappy blue crabs, iridescent crawfish, and in season, lumps of fresh shad roe and deluxe Fourchu lobster.
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Beguiling smoked bluefish is a nice, old-school touch, as are the free fish heads. Sea robin, tautog, scrod, bass, and even oddball stuff like Long Island whelk are always worth it. We’re putting the Mattituck-based fishery here for its unwavering fan base and staggering volume, and as a model of what synchronicity between urban food systems and local fishermen should look like, but rarely does. To be fair, Greenmarket vendors Pura Vida, PE & DD, and Seatuck are all fantastic. In just a few short years, in everything from wild oysters to petite blowfish tails, Mermaid’s Garden makes the case that responsibly sourced seafood tastes better. Seasonal deliveries of shrimp from Montauk are wild, while Alaskan salmon roe comes in fierce, undeniably wild shades of red.
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The many reasons to love this sustainable Brooklyn shop include fat steamers, healthy with un-chipped shells, plus sheeny sardines that are local, not from some unknown Adriatic estuary. The atmosphere, like the UES itself, is simultaneously rarefied and accessible.Ħ44 Vanderbilt Ave., nr.
Admirably, Mecir also saved the livelihoods of several employees in the process, who now demonstrate unparalleled pin-boning prowess, and oblige customers who demand to see shellfish tags. Luckily, longtime employee Dorian Mecir debuted this high-end successor, a kind of legacy fish market for legacy fish, like sword and halibut. Newhouse were regulars at Rosedale Market, which before its 2004 demise was probably the closest thing the retail fish world had to Elaine’s.
What we do instead is chase the seasons,” he says.īianca Jagger, Woody Allen, and S.I. “In reality, all wild fish is unsustainable. (Top-notch Spanish conservas and lobster are stocked year-round, along with boutique seaweed and prepared sauces.) Milburn, a fifth-generation fishmonger, painstakingly follows conservation data while building relationships with fishermen. Wild salmon comes in iced only in the summer, with black bass arriving later, along with live bay scallops. “New York is the second largest market in the world,” says Geringer-Dunn, “why are options so limited?” Three years in, regulars have become acquainted with invasive spear-caught lionfish, and wild blue catfish from the Chesapeake, packed with more meaty flavor compared to its pallid, farmed cousin. For starters, they wanted to cook underutilized species, or trash fish, they had read about. When Greenpoint debuted in 2014, business partners Adam Geringer-Dunn and Vinny Milburn weren’t necessarily looking to rejigger the seafood shop for the 21st century.
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